real trvel story by Shyamal Mukherjee uttranchal trip

real trvel story by Shyamal Mukherjee uttranchal trip

We started our tour from Kathgodam on 3rd Nov'07 visited Peora, Mukteshwar, Almora, Binsar, Jageshwar, Chaukori, Kausani, Ranikhet and back to Kathgodam on 10th Nov. It was a leisure tour of a common man with natural beauties, hue and cry, happiness, pleasure and tranquility. May be helpful to the common families like us. Here is the detail:

We started off from Rajasthan on 2nd November 07, reached kathgodam via Delhi on 3rd by Ranikhet Express at around 0630 Hrs. We already booked an Alto for our tour and our driver Mr.Anil Bisht welcomed us. Anil being a bachelor looked to be a nice chap. Our tour started with a easy go drive through the hilly roads to our destination Peora. Beauty started coming to our eyes till our son started vomitting. Stopped at Almora ki Pandeyji’s dhaba around 5 Km from kathgodam and took one cup of tea! Highly recommened, it is on the left side of the road. .

Went on through the curvature with hilly beauties, reached Kainchi via Bhowali took snaps of temple from outside. The Kainchi temple is a neat and clean one and worth staying to be memorable. They do not allow photography inside. We enjoyed moong ki pakora and tea at the stalls nearby. Try , they are delicious. Started rolling. Khairna, Garampani, Kakrighat, Suyalbari came on the way till we reached Kwarab bridge. Kwarab became center of discussion in one of the Indiamike threads regarding roads to Nathukhan, Odakhan ,Shita etc hence stopped and enjoyed the natural beauties for sometime. Did not cross Kwarab bridge and went straight. The beauty of this road was splendid. Full of pine trees, greeneries, valleys and what not! Narrow motorable uphill road and metalled one. Highly recommended for nature lovers.

Keeping aside Mona on left we reached Peora at 1100Hrs. Peora is a small hamlet on the way from Kwarab to Mukteshwar and famous for Himalayan peak views. Hard luck we found sky betraying. Mr. N D Bisht of resort sequester of Peora welcomed us. This resort has four studio apartments with individual kitchen full of kitchenettes beyond your requirements. This resort has no cook right now. The owner is likely to sell this property, so be careful to book the resort if interested. It has TV and DVD player with only national channel. There is a only one small restaurant nearby. Took lunch there. Went to Mukteshwar(10 KM) in the afternoon via Shitla, could not see the peaks as usual. Visited Mukteshwar Mahadev temple and Chauli ki Jaali. The IVRI(Veterinary Institute) requires permission, left it. Came back to Peora in the evening. Explored the kitchen and cooked chicken there with two glass of drinks. My son and wife enjoyed my cooking with the DVD of 'Gupi bhagha Phire Elo'.

Weather was somewhat chilly, could see Almora town blinking , expecting a clear sky next morning went to sleep.

Woke up early in the morning on 4th at Peora. Peaks were covered with haziness. Tried to see through, could only identify Trishul. The valley view was wonderful. Peora would definitely satisfy your eyes if the horizon is clear. Bid goodbye to Peora and started off for Binsar at 0900Hrs. We had an intention to go to Jageshwar and then to reach Binsar at around 1500hrs. Anticipating less time and uncertainty to reach Binsar before 1600 hrs, postponed Jageshwar. We found Anil to be a safe driver, cooperating and cheerful in nature. Went ahead through the same road and reached Almora via Kwarab bridge. Travelled through the Almora town. Looked to be congested but escaped due to Sunday. Took Bal Mithhai from Khem Singh as suggested by Piyush. Bal Mithhai is different but slight less sugar would have made it more tasty. Nevertheless highly recommended.

We took the Pitharogarh road to reach Chhitai Golu temple roughly 8 KM from Almora. It is a temple of bells of micro to macro size. This is a must see temple if you are near Almora and of course you can proceed straight to see Jageshwar.

Came back to Almora and visited Kasar Devi temple around 7 km from Almora on the way to Binsar. There is another road which bypasses Almora town and Kasar Devi for Binsar. These two roads meet at Kapar Khan. Could see some glimpse of Trishul and others while passing through the ridge near Kasar Devi. I suppose this place can be a good one for peak view. Took lunch at Doolmaar restaurant. Can try chicken momo there. Other dishes are most ordinary.

Went ahead through Kapar khan and Gairad bend to reach forest checkpost of Binsar. Here you have to pay an entry fee of Rs 50 per person and additional Rs 50 for four wheeler as tool tax. Forest checkpost to Binsar is a 11 Km uphill motorable road through forest. Enjoyed the journey a lot to reach out of the world!

The location of Binsar KMVN TRH cannot be explained by words. Simply superb at 2450m altitude. It was known to us that they do not have electricity, but to our surprise we found that they have started supplying bare minimum electricity in the rooms from 1800 hrs to 2100 hrs through solar energy cell. Their rooms are small, have only basic amenities, supply bucket of hot water in the morning but the location, the terrace, the candle lights and the view of himalays if you are lucky will definitely win your heart and soul……

Wanted to enjoy zero point around 1.5 Km from TRH by easy trek but could not get any company but relished the sunset from sunset point. Enjoyed the chilly weather, blowing winds and twinkling stars sitting in the evening at the terrace…. Just heaven!

We found lots of Bengali families at Binsar. Perhaps only four non Bengali young bachelors who came to Binsar from Delhi over a ride of two bikes. Really appreciable!

My wife insisted for Jageshwar what we missed today, I knew Jageshwar is a must visit as per Indiamike thread and our next destination is Chaukori. Talked to Anil and KMVN persons. I came to know that they prefer to go to Chaukori through Sheraghat, Berinag rather than through Bageshwar because of the bad road conditions. Thanks to Piyush and Captain for giving me some hint on the road . Anil drove a car few years back through the same road but happily agreed with a condition to start at 0700hrs. It was decided that next day we will go to Chaukori after enjoying jageshwar.

The dinner at Binsar KMVN TRH was finger licking. Remember they do not supply lunch/dinner at rooms, they do not supply nonveg except egg preparations, they require order of dinner at least 2 hours early and they try to box up by 2030 hrs but our experience says it is worth taking despite all these. You will reach out of world for at least some time!

Could we be able to see the Himalays tomorrow?

I know Captain likes Binsar and Chaukori a lot, I know Piyush , Almoraboy, Dilwalla, KS bluechip and others who love kumaon, I know you love trekking but as a common man we are falling in love with kumaon beauties……

This temple at situated at----If you start from Almora towards Binsar..after Kapadhkhan there is a right turn...actually this road goes to Dhaulchina..after 500m you will find a temple..small temple ...betweeen the pine forest...If you dont take a right turn ,just after comes the Binsar bend...where you have to pay some amount (50Rs/100)...if you want to go to Binsar...

From Mukteshwar its an uniterruped 180 degrees view.You can see the himalayas till your eyes can see..no obstacle at all...From Kausani and Chauokori excellent views...I have been to Kausani thrice but never able to see the himalayas, I went in May/June..and everytime it was very hazy..From Mukteshwar I was able to see even in summers,not only Mukteshwar ..Ramgarh and Gagar provides excellent views...In the month of November usually the peaks are visible very clear.. In your case seems the weather might not be clear.

Woke up at 0500 hrs at Binsar TRH on 5th Nov , the hope continues to see the Himalayan peaks. It was pretty cold . We were the first to reach the terrace at 0530 hrs. Looked that we will remain empty handed . Bidding goodbye the night and welcoming the morning. Something was coming up. Oh it was Trishul, just showing the forehead. Time passed on and the Trishul got uncovered up to the nose. Praying god to show us more. Yes it happened to some extent.The Mrigthumi came on followed by Maiktoli and lastly NandaDevi. The sun came on nicely, added beauty to Trishul, Mrigthumi, Maiktoli and Nandadevi. Started taking snaps as they were getting disappeared. The beauty was beyond my…………

The first time I felt the requirement of a tele lens and a tripod. It was a pretty good experience. The tea came on at terrace. Liked this service a lot.

Anil was ready and so we were. It was around 0700 hrs. Our Alto started for Chaukori via Jageshwar. Binsar KMVN TRH was outstanding, will remain in our memory throughout…… Highly, highly recommended.

Followed the road –Binsar forest checkpost -- Gairad bend(1Km)-- Paleo bend(14 Km)-- Barechinna(11Km)—Panuanaula(9K m)—Artola(5Km)—Jageshwar(3Km). Piyush to correct if I am wrong. The road from Gairad bend to Paleo bend was narrow but motorable and some of the portion was unmetalled. Please explore the road if possible and the beauty of pine trees between Paleo bend to Barechinna rather Dhaulchinna to Barechinna is beyond my capability to explain. Excellent scenic beauty. Artola to Jageshwar is also a good one full of pine and deodar trees.

Reached Jageshwar around 0930 hrs. Temple was impressive but the surrounding was dirty. The priests will not disturb you if you are straight forward and hard in saying. Read a lot in the thread ‘Jageshwar –a must?’ but could not appreciate that. I will not recommend Jageshwar to be a must but will recommend to enjoy the beauty of the roads Barechinna to Dhaulchinna, Artola to Jagesgwar and of course Paleo bend to Gairad bend. There is a small RadhaKrishna temple located in between the two chinnas. Worth to halt for a couple of minutes and take a snap. We really forgot to buy honey from Jageshwar as suggested by Piyush.

Left Jageshwar at 1030 hrs, took breakfast at panuanaula, went ahead for Chaukori Via- Barechinna, Paleo bend, Dhaulchinna, Sheraghat, Raiagar and Berinag.

We could see some peaks after crossing Dhaulchinna. Hoping a lot to see at Chaukori, but never known that the best part of seeing himalays was over!!!

Reached Chaukori KMVN TRH around 1500 hrs. The cottages, the watch tower, the environment was lively and attractive. As usual the sky was cloudy and of course no trace of Panchhachulli, Nandadevi and Trishul.

One good news Chaukori KMVN TRH was found to be expanding. Additional 20 rooms are coming up in a newly constructed building at the premise. Likely to be operational in Feb 08. We stayed at the cottage, took lots of photographs around. Got a feedback that sky is betraying since a few days. My son enjoyed a lot as he got lots of isotopes there of his age group.

At the dining table during dinner, came to know that it is raining at Munsiyari. The name Chaukori is lovely to pronounce, Kumaon has a lot to discover….....

More to come I hope you wish....

The 6th Nov, Chaukori made us empty handed. Could not see any peaks in the morning hours also. The place is serene and lovable. The KMVN cottages are good but came to know some complaints about delux rooms from others regarding cleanliness, watersupply etc. Our next destination was Kausani. Started off at 0900 hrs. Never say never again-- Promised to come to Chaukori again to enjoy peaks at a handshaking distance.

Followed the route Vijaypur, Kanda, Bageshwar and Baijnath to reach Kausani. Could see some peaks near Vijaypur. I suppose it is also a good place for himalay view. The pine trees were getting smaller and smaller as we were going towards a lower altitude. The road condition from chaukori to Bageshwar was very poor. Visited Ma Chandika Temple at a hilltop near Bageshwar. The temple premise has an excellent view of two rivers(Gomti and Saryu) meeting together and the view of Bageshwar town---Highly recommended.

The road from Bageshar to Baijnath is a beauty keeping Gomti river on the left side. Arrived Kausani at 1300 hrs.

Kausani looked to be a small and beautiful place for himalay view. We stayed at Suman Royal resort. Location was superb, neat and clean, nice garden. Got a surprise from its GM Mr Mitra to get a higher class accomodation without paying extra as we booked directly through the hotel frontdesk.

The Anashakti ashram or the Gandhi ashram of Kausani is not only famous for its location of himalayan view but also for the prayer room depicting Gandhiji's life. We participated in the prayer at the evening hours(30 to 45 minutes), sang patriotic songs in hindi and bangla with chorous.... it was really different. We liked it a lot... highly recommended to experience.

Tempted to have a bengali dish at lunch, entered Mouchak restaurant-- not up to the mark. Bengalees may try Radhuni restaurant adjacent to Krishna hotel which looked to be better though we did not try.

As usual on 7th, did not see any peaks except Trishul with a lot of difficulty. We went to Gwaldam and came back to Kausani. The Baijnath temple location was attractive. The Gomti river flowing by the side, enjoyed a lot to feed the fishes there on the river-- the children will enjoy like anything.

Gwaldam is famous for the view of Trishul, our bad luck continues. While returning from Gwaldam touched Kot ki Maa temple near Dangoli(3Km from Baijnath) as suggested by Piyush. The 2 Km uphill motorable road from Dangoli will take you to this temple. Good one--Recommended.

Enjoyed Anashakti ashram in the evening, some pre Diwali crackers on the road and lastly the food at Suman resort. Though slightly overcharged, still recommended to try chicken moghlai there-- delicious.

Leaving for Nainital via Ranikhet tomorrow -- our last destination to enjoy Diwali this year.

8th Nov: left Kausani after breakfast. Kausani will remain memorable for Gandhi Ashram and Suman resort. The day before we tasted rhododendron flower juice which they say is good for heart. Liked it and bought some bottles on the way. Kausani is still not congested what we expected, a lovely hill station where you can see panoramic view of Himalayas if the sky remains clear.

Started off for Nainital via Ranikhet. The river Kosi followed us till Manan and Pathria until we took a right turn for Majhkhali. Majkhali is around 10 Km from Ranikhet and looked to be a nice place for Himalayan view. Ranikhet being a army cantonment area is a neat and clean one. Liked the golf course and the Mankameshwar temple. The temple is a must see. It is under KRC(Kumaon Regiment Centre). Visited shawl factory of KRC near the temple. They also have a small outlet at a nearby location to sell their products. We bought some shawls from KRC outlet as looked to be good value for money and of course bought lots of crackers which the army persons were selling at a discount of 50 to 70 percent of tagged price even the cock brand ones.

Took lunch at sunset restaurant of Uprahri 15 Km from Ranikhet on the way to Bhowali. Food was so so but the location of the restaurant was very good. Reached Nainital in the afternoon. Nainital is full of hotels, crowds, markets like any popular hill station but the difference of having a beautiful mall road and Naini lake. The whole city was being decorated with lights added the flavour of Nainital to a new high.

Enjoyed view point, lake boating, shopping, the flatts, the ropeway and additional gift—the Diwali evening. The crackers, the lights , the decoration--- just superb. The two things we liked most are the high altitude zoo and the decorated candles being sold nearly in every alternate shop. The zoo is a must see. It will burn your calories a lot but worth visiting. The candles are outstanding, could not resist to buy a lot as a gift item.

We stayed at Hotel Alka on the mall road, the get up being the best, the food at their restaurant being better, the room being average and the toilet being the worst.

Left Nainital on 10th for Kathgodam. Visited Saattal, Naukuchiataal, Machhlitaal and Bhimtal on the way. The boating at saattall was the most memorable one . The hanuman temple on the way to Bhimtal from Saattaal is recommended. Looking at the huge Bajrangbali will remind you some episodes of Ramayan.

It was the evening, our tour was coming slowly at the end, could see Kathgodam while coming down the road. Searched for Almora ki Pandeyji’s shop for a cup of tea, found closed. The Kathgodam came nearer, nearer and nearer……

Uploaded most of the photographs in the members gallery, may be useful for those who wish to explore Kumaon in future and to refresh the memories of those who had experienced it.

I am thankful to Indiamike threads which helped us a lot for the destinations. Special thanks to Capt Mahajan and Piyush for listening and answering me. We will not forget the gentleman Anil Bisht who stayed with us throughout the tour with the steering and did whatever we asked for. We loved Kumaon, the roads, the foods, the people on the way and would like to go there again, again and again…..

Shyamal Mukherjee